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How does IPL technology work?

24 Aug 2023

Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) technology is the use of intense pulses of non-coherent light. While light is reflected from light surfaces, it is absorbed and converted into heat in dark surfaces. Depending on the range of wavelength, it can be used for a number of treatment types. Let’s take a look.

Permanent Hair Removal

Almost anything is possible today, and that includes long-lasting hair removal. Many people find unwanted hair really inconvenient and want to get rid of them for a long time. IPL technology is quick, painless, effective and a convenient solution for long-lasting hair removal.
During IPL hair removal, light energy is absorbed in the pigments of the hair strands (in melanin) and is carried to the follicle where it is converted into thermal energy and destroys the follicles in the anagen phase of the growth cycle. As you keep destroying the follicles with the treatments, thinner and less hair will grow back, more and more slowly, and in 12-18 months you will get the results you want. Because of this, during the treatments you can only use hair removal methods that do not remove the strand from the follicle – your options include shaving and using hair removal cream. 

Why do you need to repeat the treatements?

Everyone’s hair grows differently, depending on age, weight, metabolism, hormones, ethnicity, medication and other factors. However, every strand of hair goes through 3 distinct growth phases:

  • Active growth (anagen phase): In this phase the follicle actively produces cells that are the basis of the hair strand. In certain areas of the body, for example on the scalp, most follicles (83%) are in this phase. In the anagen phase, the hair has a high melanin content. 
  • Degradation (catagen phase): Lasts for 10-20 days, the hair stops growing but does not fall out yet. Follicles shrink and get ready to shed the hair strands.
  • Resting (telogen phase): Can last for months. Hairs fall out and new hair starts to grow. 
IPL treatment is only effective when the hair is in the active growth phase. Hair strands in the degradation or resting phase must reach the active phase again for the treatment to be effective. This is why you need several treatments over a longer time period if you want effective and long-lasting hair removal. (At least 12-18 months) In addition, you can’t destroy all follicles in the active phase with a single treatment. There’ll be follicles that will have no hair ever again, there will be follicles with thinner and lighter hair strands and there will be some that are hardly affected by a single treatment. The results of the treatment will be visible after 2-3 weeks, when a part of the hair in the treated area falls out.
Treatment must be repeated so that you can destroy the active follicles that survived the first treatment.

ipl hair removal

IPL Hair removal: the process 

In the first 2 months, treat the desired areas with your home IPL device every 2 or 3 weeks, and after that every month. 18 months might seem a lot, but you must understand that it’s not possible to treat all the hair in the different phases (only 20-30% of your hair is in the anagen ‘growth’ phase at any given time). The number of necessary treatments may vary per person, as the width, colour and location of hair and the colour of the skin also vary. Repeat treatments are necessary for 18 months, even if your hair does not grow anymore.

After the treatments you can enjoy hairless skin in the long term (5-7 years). The human body is smart, and, unfortunately, after a while it starts to produce hair again, but with maintenance treatments (every 6 or 12 months), you can maintain this state for a long time. This is what we call permanent hair removal – with maintenance treatments every 6 or 12 months.

As the IPL light is absorbed in the pigment of the hair strand, the darker the hair and the lighter the skin, the better the results. You must consider this during the course of the treatments, and you must spend the least possible time sunbathing or in tanning beds – i.e. getting a tan – for a year for the treatment to be really effective. If you have a tan, your skin may absorb the light and get burnt. On blonde and grey hairs the treatment is not effective, as the hair strands do not have the pigments that could absorb the light, so there is no damage. If you have light brown hair, you will need high energy, repeated penetration and more treatments.

Shave your hair 2-3 days before the treatments, and during the course of the treatments, only use hair removal methods that do not remove the hair strand from the follicle. This is important, as the light travels to the follicle through the hair strand. If there is no hair strand in the follicle, the follicle will not be destroyed.

In addition to permanent hair removal, some IPL hair removal devices are suitable for other kinds of treatment if you purchase extra tips (e.g. the DermaGene Flash 2in1 IPL Hair Removal and Skin Rejuvenation Device), and there are devices with built-in skin rejuvenation functions (e.g. the DermaGene Light 3in1 IPL Hair Removal, Facial Rejuvenation and Acne Treatment Device), and there are few devices that offer all the available uses of IPL technology (e.g. the DermaGene Quartz 5in1 IPL Hair Removal, Facial Rejuvenation, Acne Treatment, Brown Spot Removal and Varicose Vein Treatment Device).

Acne treatement

Everyone has acne at some point in their life. If you are lucky, you leave it behind after adolescence, but others ‘enjoy it’ as adults. Whether you are a teen or an adult, you want to get rid of acne as quickly as possible.

Fortunately, IPL technology can also be used for acne treatment, as green light with the right wavelength (450-510nm) will kill Propionibacteria acnes, the bacteria responsible for inflammatory acne. As the light has an anti-inflammatory effect, you will have fewer and fewer red spots on your skin over time. It can also be used on smaller acne breakouts. The treatment has spectacular results in serious cases of acne. Your skin will be less oily and your pores will be smaller. You should use the device even if you don’t have acne, but you don’t like that your skin is oily and you have wide pores, as the light minimises pores and decreases sebum production.

It’s a great benefit of this kind of treatment that you don’t have to pop your pimples, so you won’t have scars.

Important note: you mustn’t sunbathe during the course of treatments and you must use high protection suntan lotion or a high SPF sunscreen product (as you should in summer, anyway :) )

IPL acne treatement: the process

Have a treatment once every 2-3 weeks as long as you need it, then have a maintenance treatment every month.

Cleanse your face thoroughly before using the IPL device. It’s important that you only use it on intact skin, as treating damaged or injured skin may lead to hyperpigmentation. You must use a high SPF sunscreen product after the treatment, and you mustn’t sunbathe for a month.

You will feel a pleasant warmth during the treatment, which should never cause any pain.

ipl acne treatement

Photorejuvenation and Brown Spot treatement

Nowadays you have several options for at-home facial rejuvenation and maintenance treatments. In addition to cosmetic products, more and more electronic skincare devices are available for home use, and if you purchase these from a merchant with sufficient expertise, you can use them safely.

Photorejuvenation means the use of light to improve the effects of ageing (wrinkles, saggy skin, pigmentation). IPL causes thermal damage to collagen fibers. This microdamage stimulates the production and multiplication of new collagen. The skin will be firmer and more supple, as the fresh collagen is thicker and absorbs more water in the skin. Wrinkles will be filled and look less pronounced. The skin will be evenly bright and its texture will improve. You can use it on crow’s feet, wrinkles and pale, uneven skin. It also greatly improves skin damaged by smoking. You will have a tight, fresh and firm complexion, so this is the perfect facial rejuvenation treatment.

So if your goal is to regenerate your skin, IPL is the perfect solution, as it can eliminate surface wrinkles, improve texture, and lighten brown spots (if you have any) in a course of treatments, and the result can be maintained with additional single treatments. (In addition to cosmetic technologies, nutritional supplements may also be used to replenish collagen, such as the DermaGene AURORA Collagen Lemonade Drink Powder, and the DermaGene BELLORA Collagen Coffee Cream Powder). 

As the flashes of light penetrate the skin, the surplus melanin (pigments) in the skin absorbs the light, and heat is generated, which ‘destroys’ these pigments. Macrophages transport and process the fragmented melanin. As a result hyperpigmented areas will be lighter or may even disappear.

A course consists of 8-10 treatments, and you need to have a treatment once every 2-3 weeks. If you want to maintain the results, have a maintenance treatment every month or every 2 months. The flashes may cause a pleasant warm feeling and more intense heat on the brown spots, but it mustn’t be painful.

 

Varicose vein treatement 

IPL light works similarly in the treatment of spider veins (varicose vain treatment) as it does in hair removal, the only difference being that here light is not absorbed by melanin but by the hemoglobin in the blood. For this, you need different settings and need to target a different depth (different wavelength). Once you’ve done this, great heat is generated, which damages the blood vessels. The burned section of the blood vessel is transported by macrophages and is cleared from the body through natural processes – and varicosity disappears.

Important note: with an at-home IPL device you can only treat capillaries, i.e. the light red, very thin spider veins. Use the device once every 3 weeks. Go through every area 3-4 times. You will experience strong tingling. The device is suitable for the treatment of facial rosacea. It’s important that you use an appropriate filter for proper targeting when treating varicose veins – only one of our devices, the Quartz5in1 IPL device, is suitable for such treatments.

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